Puppies can get fussy and cranky when they’re tired, just like babies. And if we don’t set some sort of rest schedule for them they won’t necessarily just lie down when they’re tired, some of them will just keep going until they’re beyond exhausted.

That’s where enforced naps come in; you can help them regulate your dog’s energy by encouraging rest periods throughout the day. And the best part? After a week or so your pup will acclimate to their new nap schedule, making life easier for the both of you.

So let’s take a look at the hows and whys of enforced naps, and why they’re so beneficial for puppies.

What Is An Enforced Nap?

Simply put, enforced naps are when you encourage your dog to get the sleep they need.

An enforced nap is when you force your dog to settle down and take a nap. Now that may sound like a punishment, but it’s a positive thing for your puppy if they haven’t learned how to settle down and relax on their own.

Not all puppies have an “off” switch, and if they don’t get enough rest throughout the day they’ll become cranky and fussy. Enforced naps help get your dog used to the idea of needing to recharge, which is something many of them need help with, especially when already overly stimulated by being in a new home with all sorts of new and exciting things to explore.

Signs Your Dog Needs a Nap

Does your puppy turn into a maniac and stop listening to all command sometimes? Chances are they’re overly tired, and when they’re exhausted they act out in various ways, making any sort of training nearly impossible.

Some dogs get extra vocal when they’re tired, some get a bit more aggressive than usual, and others get extra mischievous. After a little while with your new pup you’ll get to know their personality and be able to tell when they’re extra fussy — and those are the times when a good nap can help.

Think about the last time you didn’t get enough sleep and how it effected your behavior — the same is true for our dogs. Lack of sleep can cause anxiety and frustration, and that’s true for puppies as well. A well rested pup is much more likely to be a happy pup.

Let’s put it this way — sleep is one of our basic needs, yet not all pups settle down when tired. Some of them just keep going beyond the point of exhaustion because there’s so much going on in the world. That’s where we as their caretakers come in; we need to teach them healthy sleep habits.

The Benefits of Enforced Naps

If you teach your pup to settle down and nap at certain times throughout the day on a consistent basis that will become their normal routine. And having those enforced nap times can help cut down on many troublesome puppy behaviors that are due to being overly tired and overly stimulated.

How to Enforce Naps For Your Dog

The first rule of enforced naps is to make them a positive experience for your pup. Just like making every poop a party when potty training, you need to encourage your dog to see settling down time as a good thing.

Picking The Right Place

Now if you’ve already decided to crate train you can use the crate as their rest spot, but really any quiet place will do. If you try to make your dog settle down in the middle of the living room while your kids are running around you’re just asking them to fail since every moving thing will looks like an invitation to play for your pup.

If you work from home a corner in your office with a nice dog bed can be a good option. As long as you choose an area that’s free from too much noise and visual distractions you should be fine.

How Many Naps Does Your Dog Need?

Now there’s no set rule on how many naps your dog needs throughout the day, so this part will largely depend on you and your own schedule with your dog. Dogs usually sleep between 12-14 hours a day as well, so you don’t need to worry about messing up their night time sleep due to naps either.

For my pup we did three naps each day; one after breakfast, one after her afternoon walk, and one in the evening after dinner. Those were the times when she would usually get unruly, so I worked nap times in to cure some of that chaos.

How To Encourage Your Puppy to Nap

I’m a big fan of Frozen Kongs (a Kong toy filled with frozen treats) to keep dogs busy, so it was what I used to encourage my pup to settle down and nap.

I’d call my dog over to her bed and have her lie down, then treat her with a frozen kong. And just like magic that Kong would keep her busy for 10-15 minutes until she inevitably passed out.

After awhile she knew the routine and would be going to her bed right on time, ready for her Kong infused nap. For food motivated dogs any sort of long lasting chew or food toy will be the easiest way to encourage your pup to settle down.

Do Adult Dogs Need Enforced Naps?

Now if you’ve adopted an adult dog they may or may not need to learn how to settle down and nap. I know, not a very good answer but it really depends on your dog. Some adult dogs already know how to settle down when they’re tired, and some don’t.

If your dog has trouble settling down or relaxing on their own using enforced naps will be a positive thing. Not all dogs know how to settle down on their own, and it’s a valuable tool for them to learn. Not only for them to get the rest that they need, but to also learn that settling down is part of a good routine.

I’ve gone over how to make your new dog comfortable in your home, and a lot of those tips have to do with making sure your dog has some nice quiet places where they can relax (and feel safe) throughout the day which is based on the same premises of enforced naps — making sure your dog can get as much rest and relaxation as needed.

How Does Your Dog Act When They Don’t Get Enough Sleep?

How does your pup act out when they’re exhausted? Do they become impossible to train? Do they get into extra trouble and cause more chaos than usual? And most importantly — how much did your life improve once your dog learned how to settle down on their own? Let me know in the comments.

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And before we begin it’s important to know you’re not alone, and it’s not necessarily caused by something you did wrong, nearly 80% of dogs find it stressful to be left alone.

From excessive barking when you’re away to overly excited greetings at the door, here’s 10 common symptoms of separation anxiety in dogs.

Barking & Howling

One of the most obvious signs of canine separation anxiety is a dog that barks or howls when you leave. They may sit at the window and howl, or they may bark while left in their crate. The one thing this kind of barking has in common is that it’s persistent, and it’s directly triggered by being left alone.

Pacing

Pacing is another common symptom of separation anxiety. Some dogs may pace back and forth near the door, while others may pace in specific patterns throughout the house. If it’s being caused by separation anxiety the behavior is only present when their owner is gone.

Urinating & Defecating

Some dogs will have accidents in the house when stressed out, and this includes anxiety caused by being alone. If your dog is potty trained and only seems to have accidents when you’re away it’s likely directly due to separation anxiety.

Salivating & Panting

Extra salivating and panting can be signs of nervousness and anxiety, and some dogs with separation anxiety will exhibit these behaviors.

Restlessness When Left Alone

A general restlessness when you leave is another sign your dog have separation anxiety. If they’re constantly getting up, checking the windows, and seemingly unable to relax or nap chances are they’re anxious.

Trying to Escape

In severe cases of separation anxiety dogs will try to escape from wherever they’re confined to, whether that’s their crate or the house itself. They may chew through doors or potentially break windows, which can result in serious injuries.

Destructive Behaviors (Chewing & Digging)

When left alone some dogs exhibit destructive behaviors, such as chewing on furniture or the walls. If they only engage in these sort of behaviors when left alone it’s likely due to separation anxiety.

Clingy Behavior

If your dog refuses to leave your side when you come home they might have separation anxiety. Now a clingy dog isn’t always one with separation anxiety, but if your dog only sticks right by your side after you come home it’s likely because they’re still trying to get over the anxiety they felt when you were gone.

Nervousness and/or Excitement When You’re Leaving

Dogs are smart, and they know our routines just as well as us. If your dog starts to get nervous in the morning when you’re getting ready for work they’re exhibiting signs of separation anxiety. That ritual of getting ready is causing them anxiety since they know they’re going to be left alone.

Overly Excited Greetings When You Get Home

We all love coming home to a happy dog, but overly excited greetings can be a slight cause for concern. If your dog gets so excited they pee, or if they can’t contain themselves and start to tremble when you come back home they might have separation anxiety.

What to Do If Your Dog Has Separation Anxiety

Now that we’ve covered the symptoms of separation anxiety it’s time to come up with a management plan.

Unfortunately it won’t be cured overnight and it’s not something your dog will just outgrow with time, but there are some simple steps you can to do help manage the behavior (as long as it’s not a severe case such as escaping through windows, at which point you should reach out to a trainer for help).

I’ve written an entire article about how to manage your dog’s separation anxiety, but here’s the TLDR version to help get you started;

• Step 1: Keep your dog calm as you get ready. If you know brushing your teeth starts to get them riled up give them a treat while you brush to try and turn that part of your routine into a positive one for them.
• Step 2: Get your dog used to you leaving. Leave for short periods of time to get your dog used to you leaving, rather than them just stressing about you only leaving for 8+ hours at a time.
• Step 3: Give your dog something to do when you leave. Frozen kongs (a toy filled with frozen dog treats) is my favorite for this; it gives your dog something fun and productive to do, and since it’s drozen it should last a good while.
• Step 4: Teach your dog independent behaviors. By encouraging your dog to do things on their own at a distance from you, you can teach them that they don’t have to be right at your side to be comfortable.
• Step 5: Keep your dog physically & mentally exercised. If you keep your dog physically and mentally exercised each day they’re much more likely to remain calm and well behaved when you’re away. There’s plenty of ways to keep your dog busy indoors, and some ways to help tire them out.

More Resources For Managing Separation Anxiety

Unfortunately there is no magic overnight cure for separation anxiety, but over time if you stick with these methods it can be managed.

• Separation Anxiety – ASPCA
• Separation Anxiety in Dogs – VCA
• Helping Dog Anxiety – Humane Society of the United States

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Luckily there are a few methods that make getting your dog to take their pills easier. From using pill pockets to going with the cheese trick, here’s 7 tips to get your dog to take their medicine.

1. Wash Your Hands

First things first, you’re gonna want to wash your hands if your dog is already on to you and knows you’re trying to get them to take their pills. A dog’s sense of smell is way better than ours, so if your dog is already suspicious of those pills try to wash off as much of the scent as possible.

2. Pill Pockets

Pill pockets are treats that you can mold around pills, so the treat itself is completely covering the pill. They come in a variety of sizes and flavors, and are available at most stores. I’ve had good luck with Greenies brand, which can accommodate a couple capsules at a time.

3. Peanut Butter

Peanut butter is great for getting your dog to take their pills because it’s stickyness makes it less likely your dog will be able to easily spit the pill out. Just be sure the peanut butter does not contain xylitol, an artificial sweetener that can be deadly to pets.

4. Cheese

Cheese is another great option for giving your dog pills. It’s easy to shape, and you can hide their pill completely inside a small piece. And since most dogs absolutely love cheese if your dog gets excited enough for their treat they might just swallow it without even noticing the pill inside.

5. Sausage/Hot Dogs

Using hot dogs or sausage is another go to for me when it comes to giving my dog her pills. She loves hot dogs that the smell and anticipation of being given a bite means she swallows it immediately, not even noticing the pill I hid inside.

6. Canned Food

If your dog is like mine who normally eats dry food, chances are they absolutely love canned food. If that’s the case you can hide their pills right in one of their regular canned meals. Of course if your dog is the suspicious type this might not work, but for those who are overly enthusiastic about canned food they might just gobble the whole thing up.

7. Use a Pill Pusher

If you’ve tried all those other methods and your dog still won’t take their pills you can opt for a pill pusher. It’s basically a syringe that you use to get the pill deep down your pet’s throat. If you’re uncomfortable with that process there’s no harm in calling your vet for advice. They can likely talk you through it over the phone or give you a demonstration.

Remember to Switch Up Your Methods

If your dog is going to be taking pills for awhile the most important thing to keep in mind is that you’re probably gonna have to switch up your methods.

If you use cheese for 3 days in a row, they might grow wise and spit it out on day 4. So to ease those suspicions use different methods before they catch on.

What’s Your Favorite Method?

Did I leave out any of your favorite methods for getting dogs to take their medicine?

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The post 7 Tips For Getting Your Dog To Take Their Pills appeared first on Puppy Leaks.

The sleep startle reflex is an instinct in animals, and it’s one many of our domestic dogs carry. In this article we’ll go over why dogs have the reflex, and some practical tips to prevent the behavior.

Why Is My Dog Aggressive When Woken Up?

Simply put the sleep startle reflex that many dogs have is an instinct to protect themselves from danger. In the wild it’s a defense mechanism that helps keep animals safe when there’s an unknown disturbance nearby.

Those seconds upon waking can mean life or death, and it’s why they awake in an aggressive manner. And like many other instincts, it’s a trait some of our domestic dogs still carry.

It’s especially common in ex-racing greyhounds who grew up in a kennel environment, used to long periods of undisturbed sleep. Although being locked up in a kennel most of the day isn’t the “best” life for a dog, it is one that is predictable, which is why adapting to a normal home with a new routine and new disturbances can be quite an adjustment for some dogs.

Sleep startle is also seen in stray dogs, and those who grew up in a not so secure environment where being prepared for anything immediately upon waking kept them safe.

Of course the exact reason why some dogs have the sleep startle reflex and some don’t isn’t 100% clear, as well as the reason why some dogs seem to “grow out of it” while others have it for life.

Just because your dog exhibits sleep aggression doesn’t mean they’re an aggressive dog either, it’s seen in otherwise well adjusted dogs. Sometimes it’s simply caused by being in a new home or by a change in their environment.

How To Prevent Your Dog From Waking Up Aggressively

Keep in mind these tips aren’t going to be 100% successful for every dog. Some dogs may never “grow out of” the sleep startle reflex since it happens unconsciously, while others may get better over time.

Don’t feel bad if your dog’s sleep aggression isn’t cured overnight; remember that it’s not your fault. It’s a normal instinctive reflex, and it’s one that is much stronger in some dogs than others.

The best way to help prevent your dog from waking up aggressively is to give them their own bed, in a quiet area where they can feel secure. Easier said than done if you have other pets and children at home, but do your best to encourage everyone to leave the dog alone when they’re resting as to prevent any aggressive behaviors.

It’s also a good idea to wake up your dog with a verbal command when you need to get their attention, rather than coming up and startling them by touch.

As tempting as it may be, if your dog exhibits aggression in their sleep it’s probably a good idea not to have them sleep in bed with you. It’s impossible to predict if your movements at night might trigger their aggression, so a dog bed next to yours might be a better option.

Unfortunately you can’t simply train your dog out of sleep aggression, the best you can do is make sure they feel secure to lessen the chances of it happening.

If you punish your dog for waking up aggressively you’re just going to make them even more insecure in their surroundings, leading to even more behavioral issues. Remember; they’re not being aggressive on purpose; it’s an unconscious reflex.

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When it comes to how long it takes there is no “one answer fits all.” While most dogs can be potty trained quite reliably within a few weeks, your pup is likely still going to have occasional accidents for the first year.

How Long Does It Take to Potty Train a Puppy?

Unfortunately there is no exact answer when it comes to how long it takes to potty train a puppy, since most of it depends on the training method you choose.

The good news is, if you’re consistent with potty training it should only take a couple of weeks until your puppy is mostly house trained.

I say mostly because it’s important to be realistic, and understand that accidents will still happen in the first few months, even if your pup has a pretty good grasp of potty training.

If you’re looking to house train your dog quickly the tips below will help get your pup on the right track.

Tips for Potty Training Your Puppy

When it comes to potty training your puppy remember two things; consistency and prevention are key.

The sooner you teach your dog that going potty outdoors is the best thing they can do, the quicker they’ll catch on that outside is where they should be doing their business.

Have Someone Around To Supervise Them For The First Week or Two

Puppies can’t hold their bladders for extended periods of time, so having someone around during that first week or two to take them out will help immensely when it comes to training.

And when it comes to teaching them that prevention is key. It’s much easier to train a dog to go potty outside by praising them like crazy when they do, rather than trying to prevent it by punishing them if they have an accident indoors.

By having someone around for the first week or two who can let them outside frequently you can start teaching your dog right away that outside is where I need to go potty.

Easier said than done, I know, but by being consistent and praising your dog like crazy every single time they pee or poop outside they’ll quickly catch on that outdoors is where the bathroom is.

Tip: Consider using a long leash or tether to help with supervision during that first week.

Don’t Rely on Punishment When They Have an Accident Indoors

One thing to avoid when potty training your puppy is just relying on punishment and expecting your dog to understand what you want.

Sure your dog will feel bad if you yell at them for peeing inside, but that doesn’t mean they’ll understand what they should have done instead unless you show them.

If you catch your dog in the act you can bring them outside, and praise like crazy if they finish the job outdoors.

Keep a Consistent Schedule For Your Pup

Another tip to help with potty training is to be consistent with their schedule.

Not only will it help your pup learn what’s expected of them, but it’ll make your job of potty training easier since you’ll get to know when they need potty breaks throughout the day.

Good times to let your dog outside for a potty break include:

• In the morning when they wake up
• After they’ve eaten
• After a walk or play session
• After they get up from a nap
• Before bedtime

After supervising them for a couple days you’ll get a pretty good idea of how many times your dog needs to pee and poop each day, and what signs they start to show when they need to go outside such as sniffing, barking or circling.

Make It A Party Each Time They Pee or Poop Outside

Your neighbors might begin to think you’re crazy, but it’s important to praise your dog like mad every time they go pee or poop outside if you want them to repeat the behavior.

Tell them how good they are and have a quick little play session to show how happy you are. Teach them that going potty outside means party time.

Be Sure To Clean Any Places Where They Had an Accident Indoors Effectively

Since accidents are inevitable, be sure to pick up a decent enyzmatic pet odor cleaner to help prevent them from eliminating in the same spot over & over again.

If the accident isn’t cleaned effectively those odors will remain, signaling to your puppy that it’s a good bathroom spot.

Remember That Accidents Will Happen

It’s important to remember that accidents are gonna happen, especially in those first couple of weeks and that it’s all a part of the normal house breaking process.

Don’t get discouraged, just keep on working on the potty training process and your pup will be house broken soon enough.

Recommended Reading

For more tips on how to potty train your puppy check out the following articles;

• 5 Simple Tips For Potty Training Your Puppy
• How to House Train Your Dog or Puppy
• How to Potty Train Puppies

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The post How Long Does It Take to Potty Train a Puppy? appeared first on Puppy Leaks.

My dog and I used to be the complete opposite. I was the lady trying desperately to keep my dog calm on walks, holding her back with all my power whenever someone walked by. I was also the one who always had a tight grip on her leash, even when nothing exciting was around because pulling became her default when out for walks.

But a few years back I finally found some loose leashing walking tips that helped. After reading and watching everything I could find on the subject I found some methods that actually worked. In this article we’ll go over why dog’s pull on the leash, methods you can use to stop the pulling, and why consistency is key. Here’s how I stopped my dog from pulling on the leash.

Why Dogs Pull on The Leash

Before diving into the methods that will stop your dog from pulling on the leash let’s take a quick look at why dogs pull to begin with. As with many other behaviors, understanding why dogs pull on the leash to begin with, and how we may be inadvertently encouraging it, can make managing the behavior easier.

Dogs pull on the leash because it’s normal canine behavior. Is it desirable? No, but it is natural to them. Pulling gets them where they want to go, and it gets them their at their own pace.

Your dog doesn’t pull on the leash because they’re trying to be dominant, they do it because it works. In other words, if you’re behind your dog on walks and they’re pulling you’re teaching them to pull even more. That pulling is being rewarded because it keeps them moving forward and getting to where they want to go.

If your dog has always pulled on leash it’s going to be a hard habit to break. Because they’re used to moving forward while pulling the behavior itself has been encouraged, and a dog’s natural reflex is to oppose restraint. But if you’re consistent you can break that habit, and over time you can put and end to all that pulling by showing your dog that walking by your side is much more rewarding.

Not All Methods Will Work Perfectly For Every Dog

The first thing to keep in mind when teaching your dog to stop pulling on the leash is that not every method will work for every dog (this goes for dog training in general). I’ve tried many methods when it comes to loose leash walking, and I always felt like a failure when one didn’t work. So if you’ve read up on loose leash pulling in the past but didn’t see results you’re not alone.

Much of dog training is about finding what motivates you dog, and building on that. For Laika I stuck with methods that offered good incentives for my dog — ones that included lots of yummy treats and toys as motivation.

Have you ever heard of the be a tree tip? It goes like this — when your dog begins to pull on a walk you stop and stand still. The theory is that your dog will learn that pulling means you’re gonna pause the walk, therefore he won’t pull anymore.

Do you know what happened when I tried that with my excitable dog that was already used to pulling on leash? She pulled even harder to get where she wanted to go and got frustrated when I wouldn’t move.

If you’re patient enough you might be able to have success with this method, but it didn’t work very well for my dog. I tried for months, and I was stuck on the side of the road who kept stopping every 3 feet to stand still for a couple of minutes hoping my dog would choose to settle down. But that didn’t happen. At best she’d stay at the end of the leash looking forward, and sometimes she’d stop for a moment but as soon as we started moving again she was right back to pulling.

Being a tree didn’t work for my Laika — part of that’s due to her excitability, and part of it’s due to the fact that she was already used to pulling to get where she wanted to go. When it comes to keeping your dog from pulling on the leash you’re going to have to find a method that motivates your dog.

Now this isn’t to say that be a tree doesn’t work well for some dogs; I’ve seen it work. It just didn’t work well for my dog, and might not be the best method if you have a dog that’s been pulling for a long time.

When it comes to training your dog to walk nicely on the leash keep one thing in mind — not all methods work perfectly for every dog. Don’t get discouraged if one single method doesn’t work with your dog. Part of dog training is figuring out what motivates your dog, and building on that.

1. Pick One Walking Method and Stick With It

The first tip when it comes to teaching your dog not to pull on the leash is picking one walking method and being consistent. You need to teach your dog what behavior is acceptable on a walk, so figuring out how you want your dog to walk and being consistent with that goal is the quickest way to get there.

Do you want your dog to walk on your right side, left side, or a few steps behind? Pick your preference and stay consistent. If you want your dog to stick to your right side at all times make sure everyone who walks him sticks to that plan. Sticking with one method will help teach your dog exactly what’s expected of them on a walk, and will make training go smoother.

2. Start in a Non Exciting Area

When it comes to teaching your dog how to walk nicely on a leash one thing you want to avoid is setting them up to fail. So when you’re trying to teach your dog to remain calm and walk nicely it’s important to use a non exciting are for you training. Pick a quiet time of the day and practice walking down the street, go for an evening stroll during dinner time when most people are indoors, or go to a park during non peak hours.

If you take your dog to a crowded park before they have good leash manners (and proper impulse control) chances are they’re going to be far too excited and stimulated to pay attention and learn anything. They’ll be far too distracted by all those exciting sounds, smells and sights — and of course squirrels. Don’t set your dog up to fail like that. Start by teaching your dog how to walk nicely in a calm area and build from there.

3. The Cheater Method: Using a Front Clip Harness

My favorite method when it comes to teaching your dog not to pull on the leash is one I call the cheater method — using a front clip harness. The best part is front clip harnesses are easy to use; the hardest part is figuring out how the hell to put them on the first couple of times.

I have zero regrets about getting a front clip harness years ago, in fact it’s one of the tools I wish I’d had from the very beginning. I’ve never seen a single piece of equipment have such an immediate impact on walks. Using a front clip harness is one of my favorite dog walking tips for that very reason; it’s a nice simple way to help “reset” your dog’s leash manners if you haven’t been using one.

Using a different piece of gear works especially well on dogs that are already accustomed to pulling with a traditional collar/leash combo. From the moment you start using your new harness keep up the praise as your dog walks nicely. Your dog will start to associate the harness with loose leash walking.

It’s the same method used by a lot of police K9s. They have different collars they wear depending on the tasks they’re being given. A simple switch of their collar puts them into a different mindset, and they know exactly what is expected of them.

Before using that harness I had been using a traditional leash and collar, and Laika had already grown accustomed to pulling. She would start pulling immediately as soon as we got out the door, but once I switched to the front clip harness that changed. She wasn’t used to that harness, or having a leash that clipped in the front — so I took advantage of that period and started teaching her nice walking manners while she adjusted to the new piece of gear. It didn’t take long for her to catch on, and since then our walks have been much more enjoyable.

4. Use Treats to Encourage Your Dog to Follow You

Whatever method you end up using to keep your dog from pulling on the leash the most important thing to remember is that you have to keep your dog motivated. To help encourage them to walk nicely you need to show them that good things happen when they do, and the easiest way to accomplish that is by using yummy treats. Giving your dog something positive for a certain behavior will encourage them to repeat that behavior, and loose leash walking is no exception.

So when you start teaching your dog how to walk on a leash remember to use treats (or toys if your dog is more play motivated) to encourage them to follow you. This will show them that walking nicely without pulling on the leash means good things happen, and in time they’ll start to repeat that behavior on their own.

Resources & Recommended Reading

• Loose Leash Walking Fundamentals
• How to Teach Loose Leash Walking
• Loose Leash Walking: Putting an End to Leash Pulling
• Teach Your Dog to Walk Nicely on a Leash

The post How I Stopped My Dog From Pulling on the Leash appeared first on Puppy Leaks.

Interactive games are great for puppies — they’re mentally stimulating, they’re a fun way to strengthen the bond with your new dog, and they’re a great way to work on some basic training skills such as impulse control. From the “come here” game to playing a game of tug of war, here’s 5 easy puppy training games.

Tip: As with all things puppy remember that your dog’s attention span is limited. Keep these games short and sweet, and remember to stop before they get bored and/or frustrated.

The Come Here Game/Pass The Puppy

Now I know what you’re thinking — how is teaching my dog to “come here” a game? The truth is teaching your dog to reliably come when called can be a challenge, but turning it into fun game can help reinforce the behavior. And if you can get the help of a few friends you can turn the “come here” game into a game of “pass the puppy” for some extra socialization.

How to Play the Come Here Game

1. Sit on the ground with a few treats or a toy
2. Tell your pup to “come here”
3. When they reach you praise them like crazy and give them the treat/toy
4. Wait for your dog to walk off and repeat steps 1-3 (you can move spots/change rewards to keep it interesting)

The come here game is easy to play, and the best part is it’s a nice way to teach your dog that good things happen when they “come here.” If you’ve ever dealt with an adolescent dog you know how challenging it can be to get their attention — so teaching your dog that “come here” equates to “yay fun times!” when they’re a puppy helps out tremendously.

How to Play Pass the Puppy

1. Have a couple of people sit around the room or yard with treats/toys in hand
2. Have one person at a time call your puppy with “come here” command
3. When your pup reaches them have the person praise your pup like crazy and give them a treat/toy
4. Repeat steps 1-3 with a different person calling your puppy

Like the come here game, pass the puppy will help reinforce a reliable recall. And since it relies on more than one person it’s a good way to get in some extra puppy socialization since it’s a fun and positive way to introduce your pup to new people.

One of my favorite ways to get in some extra puppy socialization is a game of pass the puppy since it’s a positive and fun way to introduce your dog to new people.

The Which Hand Game

One easy game you can play with your puppy is called the which hand game. It’s a mentally stimulating nose work game that’s good for teaching your dog some basic manners and impulse control when it comes to dealing with treats. It’s also a great basis for teaching your dog that training and listening to you is a fun thing to do, making it more likely you’ll be able to grab their attention for further training down the line.

The only thing you need for the which hand game is some dog treats; if you don’t have any on hand you can use some chopped up fruits and veggies (that are safe for dogs) or make some of your own homemade dog treats.

How to Play the Which Hand Game:

• Place a treat in one of your hands.
• Close your fists and hold them out in front of your dog.
• Let the dog choose which hand it’s in.
• When your dog sniffs or paws the correct hand open it up and give them the treat.

When it comes to the last step it’s up to you to decide what sort of signal you prefer from your dog — whether it’s a gentle sniff or paw. With Laika I prefer sniffing since her “gentle” pawing is still pretty rough, so she only gets the treat when she gently sniffs the correct hand.

If your dog is getting too excited over the treats and biting at your hands or clawing your arms I recommend working on the “It’s Yer Choice” game (see video below) first. It’s an impulse control game that teaches your dog to be gentle when it comes to dealing with treats.

The “Find The Treats” Game

Nose work games such as “find the treats” are a great way to stimulate your dog’s mind and help them hone in on their natural sniffing abilities. It’s a great game for puppies because it’s mentally and physically stimulating, it helps build their focus, and it can help boost their confidence by teaching them a new skill. Plus it’s a really fun way to bond with your new dog. And since you can teach your dog to “find the treats” in your home it’s great for puppies since you’ll be working in an environment that isn’t too distracting.

As far as the game of “find the treats” goes it’s simple enough — it’s teaching your dog to dog sniff out treats you hide around the house.

Now when you’re first starting out you’ll want to make it easy on your dog until they start to get the hang of it. Have your dog sit in the stay position while you go around putting a few treats in a couple different spots throughout the room while they watch you. After you’ve placed them come back to your dog and tell them to “find the treats.” Remember to keep it fun and positive by praising them every time they pick up a treat.

Once you’re dog has a good idea of what “find the treats” means you can start hiding them in more challenging spots such as under rugs and on furniture. After some practice your dog will start using their natural sniffing abilities rather than visual cues to find all those treats. Once your dog is a pro you can even start working on it in more challenging (and distracting) environments such as the yard.

How to Play Find the Treats With Your Dog:

1. Grab some treats and have your dog sit in the stay position
2. While your dog is sitting put a few treats on the ground around them
3. Release your dog and tell them to “find the treats”
4. Encourage them as they start picking up the treats
5. Practice a few times until your dog understands what “find the treats” means
6. Start placing the treats further away and repeat steps 3 & 4
7. Start placing the treats in more challenging places that are out of sight such as under a rug or on a chair and repeat steps 3 & 4

Find the treats is a mentally stimulating game that will help improve your dog’s focus. And since treats are the only thing you need to play it’s easy to play in different environments.

Hide & Seek

Hide and seek is another one of my favorite puppy training games. It’s fun, it’s mentally stimulating, and it’s a great way to practice your dog’s recall. If your puppy doesn’t have a good stay command down you’ll want to work on that first. If you have a friend around you can also enlist their help to hold your dog while you hide.

How to Play Hide and Seek With Your Dog:

1. Have your dog sit in a stay position (or have a friend hold onto your dog)
2. Find a hiding spot
3. Call your dog
4. Praise your dog like crazy when they find you

To avoid frustration remember to keep it simple for your dog by hiding in some easy spots at first. After they get the hang of it then you can move onto hiding in some harder to find areas.

My dog loves hide and seek, even though I’m not creative enough to come up with more than 3 different hiding spots. It’s a great interactive game that lets your dog use some of their natural scent tracking abilities in a fun and stimulating way.

Tug Of War

When it comes to puppy training games tug is one of my favorites. It’s great physical exercise, it’s mentally stimulating, and it’s great for teaching your dog some basic impulse control and manners. And since it doesn’t requite a ton of space you can play it indoors.

And contrary to what people say tug of war will not make your dog aggressive, nor will letting them win will not make them dominant. Letting your dog win actually makes the game more fun for your dog, and it will encourage them to keep on playing. Research has even found that dogs who play tug of war with their owners tend to be more obedient and exhibit higher confidence.

Now when it comes to playing tug with your puppy there is one basic rule to keep in mind — the game stops if their teeth touch your hand. I usually stop the game for 30 seconds and try again, and I usually give my dog a few chances before the game is put away completely. It’ll take a few times before your dog understands that “the game is over when my teeth touch hands,” but that sort of impulse control is teaching them some basic manners.

Now depending on your puppy it might take awhile for them to get the hang of this. Some dogs get really riled up when playing tug, making it difficult for them to stick to the “no biting” rule. If that’s the case for you pup I suggest taking it slow when starting a new game. If you move the tug toy too fast or start make noises you’re dog is more likely to get overly excited.

What Are Your Favorite Puppy Training Games?

What sort of games do you like to play with puppies? Have you ever played pass the puppy for some extra socialization or hide and seek to work on their recall? Did I miss any of your favorites? Let me know in the comments below.

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Anyone that’s worked closely with their dog knows that dog training doesn’t always go as planned, and the expected results aren’t guaranteed.

I’ve certainly had plenty of “that didn’t go as planned” and “why didn’t I realize this before?” moments, so I wanted to take a few minutes to share a few of them. Here’s 5 dog training lessons I learned the hard way.

Yelping Doesn’t Always Stop Puppy Biting

Saying that Laika was a challenge when it comes to teaching bite inhibition is an understatment. She wasn’t just a challenge, she was a nightmare. I had huge scratches up and down my arms and legs, to the point where I started wearing long sleeves and pants in the summer just to avoid all the “oh my gosh what happened to you” questions at work.

I don’t know why it was so bad, I just know it was bad. So I immediately read every single thing that I could find about stopping your puppy from biting. And one method that kept popping up was the “yelp method.” Simply put, every time your puppy bites you you’re supposed to let out a yelp, and in turn your dog will stop biting because they’ll realize that they’re hurting you. You know what happened when I tried that with Laika? She bit harder.

And silly me just figured I was doing something wrong, so I kept at it. Every time she bit down on me I’d yelp, and every time I yelped she’d get more riled up and bite harder. Figuring that my yelps weren’t convincing enough I kept practicing. Eventually I’d let out a realistic yelp that would get through to her, right? No luck, she kept biting.

Turns out that yelping method doesn’t work for every dog. Some dogs just get more riled up and excited as soon as their owner starts making fun noises, and Laika was no exception. Looking back it should have been obvious; making strange noises might make puppies even more excited and nippy? Who could have possibly known? Well I didn’t, and since I read about it on the internet I just figured the method had to work eventually.

Eventually I got smart to the whole scheme and moved on to different methods. As soon as I moved onto the redirection method I let out a huge sigh of relief. I’d finally found something that actually worked. Turns out that getting your dog’s attention onto a toy rather than your bare arm works pretty well when teaching your dog to “bite this and not that.”

Training Is About More Than Just Tricks

I’ve been obsessed with dogs for a long time, and growing up I got my hands on every dog related thing I could find. That included a lot of books, and some of those were all about dog training. They taught you how to potty train your dog, how to teach them to “come here,” and how to do a few basic tricks like sit, lie down and stay. What they didn’t do is go beyond the basics.

And then the internet came around and completely blew my mind. I was astonished to find out about things like impulse control, loose leash manners and the importance of play. The books I’d been reading didn’t touch on behavior related topics, so growing up I was under the impression that most of the way a dog behaved was just due to their personality rather than anything related to training (or lack thereof).

So if my dog was being pushy or impatient I just chalked it up to their personality. I didn’t think “oh well he could probably use some impulse control training,” I just thought “oh he just knocks people over because he’s a young overly-friendly Lab that doesn’t know any better.” Well looking back it’s obvious that he didn’t know any better because I didn’t bother teaching him how to appropriately greet visitors.

I figured that my neighbors dog who barked all day long and growled anytime someone approached was just mean. The idea that “he’s probably frustrated from being chained up all day long and not used to dealing with new people” didn’t cross my mind.

As sad as that may be that’s how I thought, and that’s how a lot of us thought not so long ago. (the internet wasn’t around; the ability to look things up on a whim is relatively new) There wasn’t any emphasis on the correlation between training and behavior; it was all reactionary.

Not All Dogs Are Highly Food/Treat Driven

If you told me 10 years ago that there are dogs in this world who spit out meat because they’re more interested in something else I would have called you a liar. What sort of dog spits out food, let alone meat? Well, Laika does for one.

I found that out a few years back when trying to manage her reactivity on walks. If you’ve ever worked with a reactive dog you’re probably familiar with their threshhold i.e. the point at which they get too worked up to concentrate. When you go over that threshhold it’s nearly impossible to get your dog’s attention back, even if you’re handing out meat. Now dealing with reactivity is an extreme example, because if your dog is too excited by something nearby there’s no amount of meat that will get their attention back.

But what was interesting to me was that food doesn’t hold Laika’s attention on walks, even when there’s nothing exciting in sight. If I hand her a piece of food while we’re walking there’s a 75% chance she’ll spit it right back out. She just doesn’t care that much for food, even if it’s meat. She’ll go through the action of taking it, but she spits it right out and keeps on walking. Yeah, dogs like that exist and Laika is one of them.

Now if I hand her a treat while we’re inside she’ll eat it, but she doesn’t get very excited about it unless I really talk it up first. And 9 times out of 10 after handing her that treat she follows up by grabbing the nearest toy dropping it at my feet. Turns out not all dogs are highly motivated by food; some really do prefer play and games.

So I started using her love of play when training. Rather than just using treats all the time I started bringing her tug toy along on walks. And guess what? It works pretty damn well. Turns out my dog isn’t that into meat, but she’ll do nearly anything for a game of tug.

The Environment Makes a Huge Difference

Saying it out loud is embarrassing now, but I’ll admit it; I didn’t realize that where you’re at when training your dog makes a huge difference. I pretty much thought “my dog knows this, so she’ll do it anywhere.” Sounds simple, right?

Well as it turns out trying to hold your dog’s attention when there’s 17 squirrels running around is easier said than done. And trying to get your dog to do all their fancy new tricks in front of 15 people is harder than doing it when you’re alone in the living room.

The most obvious example of environment making a big difference is what happens when we try to teach out dogs a reliable recall. After working with our dogs on the “come here” command indoors to much success we head outside. And guess what tends to happen? They don’t “come here” when it’s time to go back inside. It’s not that they don’t remember what come here means, it’s that they might just prefer not to.

If you think about it from your dog’s perspective it makes sense. For Laika the decision was a.) would I rather stay outside chasing squirrels, or b.) do I want to go back inside where there’s nothing fun to chase? Not surprisingly option A always won. I struggled with this for a long time, until I learned to start making option B more enticing.

Rather than making option B less fun by yelling “come here” in an angry tone 100 times I opted to make option B the best one available. I paired it with all sorts of fun things like a game of tug or find the treats. To override my dog’s excitement about the environment I started working on making myself more fun and exciting than those stupid squirrels.

I rewarded her well every time she chose option B, and it didn’t take long for her to realize that come here doesn’t just mean having to come inside and be bored; it means we’ll get to do something just as fun as chasing squirrels.

Being a Tree Isn’t The Only Way to Stop Your Dog From Pulling on Leash

One of the hardest dog training lessons I had to learn was how to reliably have my dog stop pulling on leash.

Are you familiar with the “Be a tree” method? Well that’s what I tried first, and it was a completely failure. “Be a tree” is when you stop every time your dog starts to pull on the leash. It’s supposed to teach your dog that “when I pull we stop, therefore I will stop pulling to prevent all that stopping.”

Do you know how many times I tried to be a tree on walks with Laika? 1329, well that’s where I lost count at least. And do you know how she reacted? She kept pulling and whining the whole time, occasionally looking back at me like “What are you doing crazy woman? You know this isn’t how walks work.” So I decided to pair the “be a tree” method with treats. It didn’t get any better, she just kept pulling to get to where she wanted to go.

I did this for months. Every time she’d pull I’d stop, and even if I got her to stop for a moment the very next step she’d start pulling again. It didn’t work, and from what I’ve been seeing it doesn’t seem to work for a lot of dogs when used alone for training leash manners. After a while it improved Laika’s ability to stand still while on a walk, but it didn’t do anything for the ridiculous amount of pulling she’d do as soon as we started walking again.

If your dog has been pulling for years it’s one of the hardest habit to break; and you’re probably going to need to add in some additional methods such as switching directions to make it stop. Rather than just stopping to be a tree try changing directions. Pair that with some yummy treats to keep their attention and encourage them to stop pulling and follow you around.

What Dog Training Lessons Did You Learn The Hard Way?

So those are some of the dog training lessons I learned the hard way, what about yours? Did you try certain methods that just didn’t work for your dog?

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Over the past couple of years I’ve gotten quite a few e-mails asking for help on this topic. So guess what? Today we’re gonna talk about how to stop your dog from barking and lunging at the TV.

Before Laika none of my dogs ever showed much interest in what I was watching or listening to. But like many other situations Laika tends to handle things a bit differently.

Whether it’s a dog barking on TV, or a shot of a fox hunting in the snow — it’ll get a reaction from her. She not only barks  — she whines, she grumbles and she gets up to investigate. If it’s something she finds really interesting (squirrels) she’ll not only bark at the TV, she’ll jump up and start nudging it with her nose.

Her barking and lunging at the TV made me realize that 1.) I needed to find a way to keep her calm and 2.) I watch a lot more TV shows with animals than I thought. I haven’t stopped watching my animal shows, but I did figure out how to stop my dog from freaking out about it. Here’s how I stopped my dog from barking at the TV.

Why Do Dogs Bark at the TV?

All dogs are different, and that’s true when it comes to what, where, when, how and why dogs bark at certain things — including the TV. Dogs are attracted to things that move, and seeing animals move around on screen is something that peaks the interest of many dogs.

Why do some dogs bark at the TV while others ignore it? Some dogs bark at the TV out of excitement, some do it as a reaction to specific sights or sounds, some do it out of frustration, and some do it out of stress and/or fearfulness. And with high definition TV’s being the norm these days our dogs are definitely more likely to take interest in what they’re seeing on those clear screens.

With Laika it was a combination of all of those factors, and without my intervention it started happening more frequently and the intensity got worse. Her general excitement at anything that moves on TV turned into frustration. She saw all these animals having fun and doing exciting things in her own living room, yet she couldn’t join in or even get a sniff of them. When she started getting that upset I knew I had to find a way to stop it.

This is Laika, and she likes to bark and nudge at any mammal that moves on TV.

How to Stop Your Dog From Barking at the TV

When it comes to stopping your dog from barking at the TV the first thing you’ll need is a set of videos that elicit a response from them. For this I used these Paul Dinning videos. They’re great for this method (as long as your dog reacts to birds and squirrels) because they’re high quality and straight to the point — they show nothing but animals moving around on screen.

That means you don’t have sit through commercials or 5 minutes of watching a nature documentary crew set up their gear before getting a response from your dog. Once you hit play on those videos it’s go time.

The second thing you’ll need is a bunch of yummy treats. These will be used to keep your dog’s attention when all of those crazy things start happening on the TV.

Now that you’ve got some videos lined up and treats in hand it’s time to begin. Sit down with your dog in front of the TV and start playing one of the videos. I’d start with one that you suspect will only elicit a mild response from your dog. I used the bird videos first; they’re interesting enough to make my dog get up and investigate, but they don’t immediately set her intensity to 100%.

As the video plays watch the way your dog responds. Are they interested in those birds? Are they getting excited? Are they barking? Has your dog already jumped off the couch and started lunging at the TV? Observe their reactions so you’re able to predict when they’re going to react.

Now that you have a pretty good understanding of when your dog is going to react it’s time to start intervening before that happens. Give them a treat before they get too exited, and tell them how good they are as they calmly watch all those birdies. Giving your dog treats while they’re watching TV lets them know that they’re making the right decision, and doing it repeatedly will help reinforce that behavior.

It may seem awfully simplistic but what you’re teaching your dog is that remaining calm while watching TV is a positive experience, and one that makes them feel good.

Every time Laika would start to get a little excited when watching a video I’d tell her to “leave it” and hand her a treat. When she started grumbling at the TV I’d tell her to “be quiet” and hand her a treat. Over time she started reacting to things on the TV less, and eventually she was able to reliably remain calm.

Starting with a video that only gets a mild reaction from your dog is key; if you pick one that gets them riled up right away it’s going to be hard to calm them back down. And when dogs get that excited (often called over threshold) it’s nearly impossible for them to learn anything.

After you’ve taught your dog to remain calm while watching the first video it’s time to move onto video number two. Use the same method you used for video one (reward your dog for remaining calm and quiet before they get too excited), and repeat as many times as necessary until you’re confident that your dog can handle it without getting too excited.

The trick is slowly building up their tolerance to all those crazy things that happen on TV without getting them too riled up to the point where they’re unable to listen and learn. After your dog has learned how to remain calm while watching birds you’ll find it easier to keep them calm as you up the ante to watching things like squirrels and cats.

TLDR Version

That’s an awful lot of words for a fairly basic concept, I know. I’m well aware that I have a tendency to over explain things. If you’re just here to stop your dog from barking at the TV here’s the short version:

• Find some videos that make your dog bark
• Grab some treats
• Sit down with your dog and watch the videos
• Give your dog treats before they start barking
• Rinse and repeat

The concept is to change your dog’s emotional response to the TV from excitement to calmness, and you can do that by rewarding your dog’s calm behavior with treats.

For the best results I suggest starting with a video that elicits a mild response from your dog and working your way up towards the ones that make them crazy. Once your dog has some control over their impulse to bark at anything on the screen that moves it’ll be easier to work on videos that really excite your dog.

Does Your Dog Bark at the TV?

Does your dog bark at the TV? What sorts of videos set them off? Do you think your dog does it out of excitement or frustration? What methods have you used to keep your dog calm while watching TV?

Resources & Recommended Reading

The method I used to stop my dog from barking at the TV is called counter conditioning and desensitization. It’s a mouthful I know, but it is a method that works extremely well for many dog issues ranging from reactivity to separation anxiety. It’s the process of changing your dog’s emotional response to a certain stimuli or stressor (in this case the TV).

It’s a great concept for all dog owners to understand since it can be used in such a wide variety of situations. For more information on counter conditioning and desensitization (and why it works so well) I recommend checking out the following video & articles:

• How to Stop Your Dog From Barking at the Door
• How to Help Your Fearful Dog
• Counter Conditioning & Desensitization

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If you’re trying to treat your dog’s separation anxiety check out the methods I had success with when treating my dog, and the additional links at the end of this post — they’ll give you some actionable tips to help manage the behavior. As you can see they rely on a few different methods and a lot of repetition; anxiety can be rather complex to treat, and it won’t go away overnight.

As for the myths surrounding treatment options the following methods aren’t completely false (well the one about it being a phase is absolute garbage), but they’re not necessarily complete either. Used on their own they’re not often enough to treat a dog with moderate or severe anxiety. When it comes to managing separation anxiety in your dog there are no overnight cures.

Here’s 5 myths about managing separation anxiety in dogs, and why they’re not always guaranteed to work. And if you’re looking for some advice on treating your own dog’s anxiety check out the links at the end of this article — they’ll give you a better understanding of how to manage anxiety in your dog, and actionable tips to use.

A Second Dog Will Cure Your Dog’s Anxiety

The myth about getting a second dog to help treat a dog’s separation anxiety is a pretty pervasive one. And I understand why — taken on it’s own it seems like it would help. In theory getting a second dog makes perfect sense; your new dog will help keep your current one company, right? But unfortunately it doesn’t generally work out that way. But it’s not guaranteed to work; getting a second dog is not a cure for separation anxiety.

If your current dog has separation anxiety it may be tempting to get another dog to help them feel less lonely when you’re gone. The problem is dogs with separation anxiety aren’t suffering from loneliness — they’re suffering from anxiety when their owner leaves.

Dogs that have separation anxiety are anxious when they’re away from their owner(s), and while the addition of another may help them feel less lonely it’s no guarantee that it will ease their anxiety. They get anxious when their owner leaves, regardless of how many other animals you have in the house.

Other pets might bring some comfort to your anxious dog, but they won’t cure their separation anxiety. When you get another dog because yours has separation anxiety one of three things will happen:

1. Your current dog will still have separation anxiety when you leave.
2. Your current dog will teach your new dog that stressing out when you leave is “normal.”
3. Your current dog will be less anxious with their new buddy around.

The problem is there’s no way to guarantee that the third option will happen. Another dog might make your dog less lonely, but it’s not likely to cure your dogs anxiety when you’re away.

And don’t forget that dogs learn from one another, so there’s a possibility that your current dog will teach your new dog that being anxious when you leave is “normal.” This is especially true if the second dog you’re considering is a highly impressionable puppy. In the worst case scenario you may end up with two dogs with separation anxiety.

Getting a second dog can be a great choice, but it’s a big commitment. Do it for the right reasons. Don’t get a second dog just for the sake of your current dog — get a second dog because you want one.

Getting a second dog is great when done for the right reasons, but it’s not a good option if you’re just hoping it will cure your dog’s separation anxiety. Dogs with separation anxiety when they’re away from their owners — the addition of another dog is not guaranteed to help.

Crate Training Will Cure It

Crate training isn’t a bad idea on it’s own, but when it comes to treating separation anxiety it’s not a guaranteed cure. It all depends on how your dog feels about their crate to begin with.

If your dog has separation anxiety, using a crate makes sense if you may want help keep them safe while you’re away, but before you do it’s important to make sure they’re comfortable with it. For most dogs that takes a bit of time. If your dog isn’t a fan of their crate to begin with they’re not going to enjoy (or feel safe) being left in it when you leave.

Does your dog feel safe in their crate, or do they avoid it as much as possible? If your dog doesn’t feel safe in their crate to begin with putting them in there when you leave can make their anxiety worse. Not only will they still have anxiety because you’ve left — they’ll also have anxiety because they feel trapped in a space where they don’t feel safe.

If you want to crate your dog when you leave you’ll need to work on getting them completely comfortable with it first. Encourage your dog to use their crate by showing them that the crate isn’t a place to be scared of — it’s one where good things happen. If you’re not familiar with this process crate training games are a tremendous help.

If you work on getting your dog completely comfortable with their crate it can be a big help with anxiety. It all depends on whether or not the comfort the crate provides outweighs the anxiety they feel when you go to work.

Exercise Will Cure It

While it’s true that exercise can help cut down on some destructive behaviors, on it’s own it may not be enough to cure separation anxiety. Now I’m not one to say you shouldn’t give your dog more exercise — nearly all dogs would benefit from more physical activity. But what I am saying is that exercise alone isn’t always going to be enough to cure all cases of separation anxiety.

Exercise is known to help cut down on anxiety in humans and dogs alike, but it’s usually paired with additional treatment methods. Exercise can help with your dog’s anxiety, but it might not be enough on it’s own.

Most of us go to work in the morning, and for many dogs that means we leave without giving our dogs a chance to burn off any energy (this can be especially troublesome for young, energetic dogs). Before leaving for work in the morning take your dog for a quick walk or jog, or fit in a quick game of tug or fetch.

Giving your dog some extra exercise before you leave is great, and there aren’t any downsides to it — but alone it may not be enough to keep them calm as you’re leaving.

If giving your dog more exercise doesn’t work for your dog give them something to do as you’re leaving. When you’re getting ready for work in the morning does your dog start to get anxious? If so hand them a Kong stuffed with treats that you’ve frozen overnight. I prefer using Kongs because they’re indestructible (for my dog at least), and I feel comfortable leaving my dog with it.

Stuffed Kongs work so well because they give your dog something to do while you’re leaving, taking the focus off of you. They’re mentally stimulating, and since they take awhile to get through they work wonders when it comes to holding a dog’s attention.

Giving your dog more exercise is great, but alone it may not be enough to treat separation anxiety. If your dog gets plenty of exercise but still gets anxious when you leave try giving them something to do as you’re leaving. Using a stuffed Kong or something else that keeps them busy for awhile can take the attention off of you as you’re walking out the door.

It’s Gone Forever Once You Manage It

There’s a common misconception that once you find a way to manage canine separation anxiety it’s cured forever. Well that’s not exactly true. Unfortunately it can creep up back again without proper maintenance.

My dog Carter’s separation anxiety was well under control until we moved into a new home. That stress made it come back almost immediately. If I had known that was a possibility I probably would have caught the signs of his anxiety creeping back up earlier, but as it was I didn’t notice until it had gotten pretty bad.

Changes in living situations, or any extra stressors such as a new schedule, can cause your dog’s separation anxiety to come back. That’s the bad news. The good news is that since you already know the signs of anxiety in your dog you can catch them earlier the second time around. And generally speaking the earlier you manage their anxiety the easier it is to treat.

I’m not saying that your dog’s guaranteed to start acting anxious again when you leave — but it’s important to understand that it can happen. It doesn’t mean you failed the first time around, it just means that something has triggered your dog’s anxiety again.

You can help your dog by practicing the same methods you used successfully the first time around, and using them whenever you see that your dog’s starting to get anxious again.

It’s Just a Phase They’ll Grow Out Of

It’s true that our dog’s have different phases in their lives, such as equivalent of the rebellious teenage years, but separation anxiety itself isn’t a phase. It’s a problem that can effect any dog — regardless of age or breed.

For most dogs separation anxiety is progressive, and it will continue to get worse over time. If you’re able to intervene early we can stop the behavior before it gets that serious.

Canine separation anxiety is a behavioral problem that doesn’t just go away on it’s own, it’s one that will get worse over time without management. It’s not a phase, and your dog will not simply grow out of it. Like anxiety disorders in humans your dog’s separation anxiety may be triggered by something specific, but it’s not a phase. Humans don’t just wake up one day without anxiety because they reached a certain age, and our dog’s don’t either.

To prevent your dog’s anxiety from getting worse you’ll need to manage it. That includes using desensitization and counter conditioning — methods that change your dog’s negative association with you leaving into a more positive one. It takes time, and it takes a lot of effort, but it can and needs to be managed. It’s not something they will grow out of.

Conclusion

Separation anxiety in dogs can be challenging to manage, and it’s a heartbreaking behavior to see our dog’s go through. That’s the bad news.

The good news is there are methods to help manage it. They take time, and they take a lot of repetition — but it can be done. Don’t get discouraged if one single piece of advice like the ones mentioned above don’t work for your dog right away. Treating separation anxiety relies on different methods, and not all of them work well for every single dog.

Resources For Managing Your Dog’s Separation Anxiety

If your dog has separation anxiety I recommend checking out the following articles. They explain the behavior in detail, and they give practical advice and methods for managing it.

• Separation Anxiety – ASPCA
• Sealing With Separation Anxiety in Dogs – MSPCA
• Managing Your Dog’s Separation Anxiety – Karen Pryor

For dogs with severe cases of separation anxiety I suggest reaching out to a professional trainer or behaviorist for help. It can be a complex behavior to manage, so don’t hesitate to reach out for help if you’re unable to manage it on your own.

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